Visiting the Galaxy Far, Far Away – Day 1
Stop 1: Posto Florestal do Fanal – Khofar Jedi landing site & trail
Okay, Wednesday was when the real trip to see The Acolyte filming locations began. My guide Hugo, from Adventureland Tours, arrived in a Jeep. I could imagine him easily saying “Welcome to Jumanji” with his accent. We set off to the west side of the island, and he took me through a eucalyptus forest on a cobblestone road that dated back to the 1600s. Reaching Fanal, we popped out into the mist and climbed through a forest of twisted trees and the occasional cow up to the wide saddle that served as the landing area used by Master Sol (Lee Jung-jae) and the Jedi team as they race to reach Kelnacca (episode four, “Day”), and then again when Vernestra Rwoh (Rebecca Henderson) comes to investigate after the massacre (episode six, “Teach / Corrupt”).
While in the series, the landing site has just wisps of fog, my visit was nearly a grey-out. Clouds flowed up the steep hillside right onto the plateau, making visibility tough, and everything wet. Hooray for my yellow rain jacket from the rum factory! My printed photos gave us a good idea of where the locals sat under their contraption, though it was nearly impossible for me to take photos of. Still, when the background hill silhouettes poked through, I was able to take a few photos of the landing area.
Just west of the landing site is a slight hill, and on the backside of the hill is the steeper slope with the trail that the Jedi, following Bazil the tracker, march along single file. In this narrower saddle, I could easily line up the trail, and then place the backgrounds for the some of the close-up shots of Osha and Yord (Charlie Barnett). Visibility was a little better for matching the outlines against the drizzling sky. I climbed back up to the landing area to line up shots in one more try, but the weather was growing worse, so back through the mud back to the car. Better luck in spring, like when they filmed these scenes in mid-March.
Stop 2: Ribeira da Janela – Unknown Planet: The Stranger’s cave and beach
Hugo drove us down from the Fanal plateau, crossing over levadas and zipping down narrow windy country roads, sometimes in gaps barely wider than the jeep between houses. Levadas are the historic narrow waterways carved into the mountains to bring water down to the terraced farms and towns below. Many of them also serve as popular hiking trails across Madeira, as the water channels required paths for maintenance and re-directing water to irrigation customers. Reaching the coast at Ribeira da Janela, I was immediately drawn to the massive rocks just offshore – The Ilhéus, rock spires that serve as the background for the stony beach outside the Stranger’s cave. From the parking lot next to the river, I had two choices: walk around the cliff along the mouth of the river to the beach, or climb steps to a tunnel cut through the cliff to pop out on a landing above the beach. The second one was the obvious choice: the tunnel emerges on the beach side as the mouth of the Stranger’s cave! Hugo and I recreated some photos from in the tunnel facing the railing and pinnacles immediately offshore. Osha facing the ocean, holding a lightsaber against the Stranger’s throat (episode six, “Teach / Corrupt”, and of course, Darth Plagueis emerging (episode eight, “The Acolyte”).
Walking down steps to the beach, I spot a large boulder to the east that matches the boulder seen in many of the beach shots. We line up several beach shots from when Osha follows the Stranger along the shore, and one where they face each other. We notice that some of the shots have to have used an interesting lens trick in order to line up – or possibly, were the towering rocks offshore digitally moved? Obviously, the Eclipse II landing pad area alongside the rightmost rock was digitally added (using shots from Stop 5 in Seixal). But using my little travel buddies, a Jawa and a giraffe, I tried to determine the location of the shot of the little shore critters with the boulder in the background, but wave-shifted rocks made it close to impossible.
Hiking past the large boulder led to the spot where they filmed Mae walking down the beach toward the boulder (from the other side) at the end of the first episode, “Lost / Found”. A small rockfall has changed the face of this area, possibly wiping out the exact spot where the shot had been filmed. Coming back west of the tunnel entrance, we lined up the shots of Osha on the platform – only the railing had been replaced and the landing’s side covered with greenery. Because of its unique beauty, the entire Ilhéus de Ribeira da Janela area is very popular with tourists, so you might have to wait a moment to get unobstructed shots out of the tunnel and around the landing. The waves here can be a bit strong and unpredictable, so careful when trying to wade.
Stop 3: Natural Pools at Porto Moniz – Unknown Planet: The Stranger’s bath
While I had stopped at Porto Moniz earlier with my group tour, this was the time to really enjoy it. There are two sets of pools on the coast – you want the Piscinas Naturais Velhas next to the Cachalote restaurant. These pools among the volcanic rocks are surrounded by a series of concrete paths and bridges, giving you plenty of ways to view the pools and the ocean surrounding it. For the filming “Teach / Corrupt”, the sixth episode of The Acolyte, it provided a ton of different angles to film from without leaving a path.
While the waves pound the rocks outside, the ocean water in the pool is absolutely still. The main pool is divided into several areas by large lava rocks, and there are slippery steps leading into the pool in a few places. One of these entry spots is the one where Osha watches the Stranger as he swims. From this spot, there are several angles to line up, toward the water and away from it. The path leading back to the outdoor dining deck above is the path used by Osha and the Stranger. With the rock face on the left, it is pretty easy to line up the shot. For the show, a fake rock wall was constructed on a small ledge, to cover the restaurant above. Facing the pool, the shots of Osha confronting her captor are trivial to match – the rock at the water’s edge is your marker, though finding the right angle for the rock face on the right is a bit tougher.
With Hugo as the photographer, this was my chance for some great recreations of The Stranger’s scarred back. I’m pretty sure I could be Manny Jacinto’s body double. With my shirt back on, I also posed as Osha with the lightsaber. The only other set dressing that was noticeable on the show compared to real life was the placement of several rocks at the lip of the pool on the far side, helping to break up the line and blend the pool to the ocean beyond. Swimming in the pool was a blast. Once I got past the slippery steps and initial cold shock, the water was pleasant. I could have swum and splashed around for a long time. Hugo took the path to the other end of the pool and shot pictures of me recreating the shots of the Stranger swimming with Osha at her spot in the background. In those shots, you can notice the shallow step in the water to her left. Diving under, I could spot fish and crabs. I wholeheartedly recommend swimming here – even in December, it was blissful (and probably less crowded than in the warmer seasons). There’s no real amenities at these pools, just a few ledges and rocks to stash your towel and gear on, while you swim. Maybe the restaurant deck has access to some place to change – I’m not sure.
After your swim, you can head up out of the area. On far right edge of a little bridge crossing to the street, there’s a spot where they filmed a nice establishing shot of waves crashing at sea with the serene pool below, dotted with lava rock formations. Continue along the wide sidewalk on the ledge, and you can line up another establishing shot of the pools, with a greenish tinge, and the little waterfall on the left where the pool spills over into the ocean.
Stop 4: Natural Pools at Seixal – Unknown Planet: Meeting the Stranger
Only ten minutes away from Porto Moniz is the coastal town of Seixal, which has two Acolyte filming spots, the natural pools and the breakwater at the Seixal beach. First stop was the pair of adjacent natural pools, Poça das Lesmas and Poça do Mata Sete. Filmed here were the scenes from the end of “Lost / Found” – the first episode – where Mae finds her master, the Stranger on a rocky cliff. The pair of seaside pools are at the bottom of a steep driveway on a little spit sticking out into the Atlantic. Poça do Mata Sete is a large pool, and when I was there, had lifeguards for those interested in a swim. But the filming location is on the walkway overlooking the pool, where we see Mae stands with the rocks with a small cove behind her. In the shot, there is a small step-pyramid shaped rock behind her, and this is fairly easy to spot and line up with the main cliffs. The island in the far background was a digital addition.
Swinging the camera north from the pool is a small flat spot that is instantly recognizable as the spot where Mae steps along the wet rocks to spot the Stranger, with his back to Mae and the audience. The area is slick and dangerous and so reasonably off limits. I’m guessing a stuntperson rigged up with safety lines served as the Stranger for this shot. But you can safely line up the shot from the walkway just a few feet from where you lined up the Mae shot. Just past this spot is Poça das Lesmas, literally the “puddle of slugs.” Despite its name, it is a picture-perfect pool with a large natural arch over it. Hugo mentioned that they filmed at that spot, but from what we’ve seen, it didn’t make the final cut. Too bad, because this spot is absolutely gorgeous – possibly the prettiest natural pool in Madeira.
Stop 5: Praia do Port do Seixal – Unknown Planet: Eclipse II landing pad
Just a few coves over is Seixal’s black sand beach, Praia do Port do Seixal. It is protected from the sea by Cais Seixal, a breakwater dock. Just north of that is another breakwater that seals off another large natural swimming pool from the surf. This curved walkway forms the path to the rocky landing pad that the Eclipse II sits on for the series’ final episode “The Acolyte”.
While the landing pad isn’t real, the pathway is – and it isn’t attached to a large rock off the coast. The sea side of the curved breakwater is covered with large notched concrete cubes, making it obvious to spot where Osha and the Stranger walk. Storms have likely shifted some of the cubes since filming, but the spot on the path (and background cliffs and waterfall) are quick to line up. Close-up shots of the pair walking can be done on the breakwater, while the distance shots were filmed from the deck on the west side of the pool. Hugo mentioned that they closed all the businesses along that deck so they could film in privacy. A close-up shot of the Stranger from this sequence was a little tougher to line up – the end tip of the quay was our best bet to keep the cliff edges and have Manny Jacinto cover up the waterfall in the background. And with that final shot lined up, we called it a day and drove back to Funchal.
Other Things to Do in Madeira
Want to see the filming sites of Madeira but might have a tough time selling it to your not-as-into-Star-Wars family or traveling companions? Looking for more to do to turn this trip into a real holiday? I’ve already mentioned swimming in oceanside natural pools, hiking through forests and mountains on levada trails, going on a crazy taboggan ride through Funchal’s streets, and generally taking in the subtropical scenery. But here are a few more fun attractions for the island:
• Canyoneering – want more action than just a hike? Go on a canyoneering adventure where you will be climbing, sliding, and rappelling down wild rivers. They’ll provide the wetsuit, helmet, and adrenaline, you just show up!
• Explore the island’s cultural heritage – There are half-day walking tours of Old Funchal that focus on the history and traditions of Madeiran islanders. Many island one-day and two-day tours will include visits to different towns like Cámara de Lobos (Winston Churchill’s favorite hangout), Ribeira Brava, or Santana with their different treasures. With its mild climate, there are several top-notch gardens open to the public to visit, including two near the top of the taboggan start.
• Head to sea – The waters around Madeira are home to marine mammals, and there are tours specializing in whale and dolphin watching. Or if you want to get old-timey sea legs, there’s a replica of Christopher Columbus’ ship, the Santa Maria, to set sail on.
• Soak up the sun and just chill – The southern coast of the island gets plenty of sunshine and there’s plenty of places to just chill and catch some rays (or some z’s). While not every little town has a sandy beach, they are out there, and there’s plenty of pools and resorts with your name on them.
Check out part 1 here and be sure to come back next week for part 3 of James’ journey to Madeira.